Infrared Sauna Installation: Electrical, Space and Placement

Infrared sauna installation: what do you need?

Quick answer: A home infrared sauna needs a dry, level floor indoors, a few inches of clearance around it, and its own electrical circuit. One and two person cabins usually plug into a 120V outlet on a dedicated 15 or 20 amp circuit. No plumbing, drain or vent duct is needed, and two adults can assemble one in an afternoon.

Key takeaways

• Power: small cabins run on 120V with a dedicated 15 amp circuit. Most larger cabins need a dedicated 20 amp circuit, and some need 240V.
• Do not use an extension cord or plug adapter. Every manual we checked warns against them.
• Space: a two person cabin is about 4 feet wide and 3.5 to 4 feet deep. Add 4 to 6 inches at the back and sides.
• Floor: dry, level and hard is best. Concrete, tile, vinyl and hardwood all work.
• Rooms: spare rooms, basements and dry garages work well. Indoor models should not go outdoors.
• No plumbing, no drain and no vent duct. Normal room airflow is enough.

An infrared sauna is one of the easier saunas to put in a home, because it arrives as flat panels and runs on household power in the smaller sizes. This guide covers the wiring, the space, the floor and the rooms people ask about most. Your own model's manual always has the last word.

Infrared sauna electrical requirements

The size of the cabin decides the circuit. These are the common setups.

• Dedicated circuit. The sauna should be the only thing on its breaker. A one or two person cabin typically draws somewhere between 1.3 and 2.3 kW. A 15 amp, 120V circuit supplies 1.8 kW at most and a 20 amp circuit 2.4 kW, so there is no room to share. The manual or the nameplate tells you which size you need.
• 15 or 20 amps. As a rule of thumb, electricians keep long-running loads to about 80% of the breaker rating: 1,440 watts on 15 amps and 1,920 watts on 20 amps. That is one reason many two person cabins call for 20 amps. Most larger cabins, and any cabin that draws more than about 1,800 watts, need a dedicated 20 amp circuit, and a standard 15 amp outlet will not run them. A 20 amp outlet has one T-shaped slot, and it needs 20 amp wiring and a 20 amp breaker behind it, so adding one is an electrician's job.
• No extension cords. Manuals warn against extension cords and plug adapters, and most also rule out power strips. The outlet has to be within reach of the sauna's own cord.
• Grounded outlet. A three-prong, grounded receptacle is required.

A note on GFCI outlets. US electrical code generally requires GFCI-protected outlets in garages, bathrooms and basements. Sauna makers do not agree on them: some manuals say a GFCI outlet can trip under the sauna's load and advise against one, while others recommend GFCI protection in damp locations. Check your manual, and ask an electrician if the two conflict. Do not remove GFCI protection where code requires it.

Cost. If a dedicated circuit of the right size is already there, the cost is nothing. Adding a dedicated 120V circuit typically costs about $200 to $1,000. A new 240V circuit usually costs from a few hundred dollars to about $1,500. Both depend on the distance from your panel, and a permit can add to the bill.

Infrared sauna dimensions: how much space do you need?

Measure the cabin, then add clearance. Sizes vary by maker, but most fall in these ranges.

• Height. Most cabins stand about 73 to 77 inches tall. A standard 8-foot ceiling is plenty. Under about 7 feet, check the model.
• Clearance. Leave 4 to 6 inches at the back and sides for air and for the power cord. Above the roof, most makers ask for a few inches and some for up to 12. Leave 2 to 3 feet in front for the door.
• Doorways. The cabin arrives as flat panels. The largest is usually the full width of the sauna, so measure every doorway, hallway turn and stair landing on the way in.
• Weight. An assembled home cabin weighs roughly 200 to 600 pounds depending on size, in the range of a large piece of furniture. Upper floors are normally fine.

What floor can an infrared sauna sit on?

Any floor that is dry and level. An uneven floor strains the panel joints and makes the door hang badly.

• Best: concrete, tile, stone and vinyl.
• Fine with care: hardwood and laminate. A waterproof mat or sauna tray underneath protects them from sweat.
• Carpet: makers disagree. Some say low-pile carpet is fine, and the cabin floor does not get hot enough to harm it. Others say to avoid carpet because it holds sweat and moisture. If carpet is your only option, choose low pile and put a mat down first.

Where to put an infrared sauna: room by room

A spare bedroom, home gym or office is the simple choice: dry, heated, and usually near an outlet you can dedicate. These are the other rooms people ask about.

Infrared sauna in a garage

• A garage works if it is dry. The concrete floor is ideal.
• In an unheated garage in winter, heat-up takes much longer and can roughly double. An insulated or attached garage is the better choice for year-round use.
• Garage outlets are normally GFCI protected, so read the GFCI note above.

Infrared sauna in a basement

• Basements are a popular spot: concrete floor, open space, and the electrical panel is often close.
• The risk is damp. Do not put a sauna in a basement that floods or stays humid. Run a dehumidifier if the air is damp.

Infrared sauna in a bathroom

• A large bathroom works well: waterproof floor, an exhaust fan, and a shower next to the sauna.
• Keep the cabin out of splash range of the shower and tub. Manuals say to keep it away from any source of water.
• Bathroom outlets are GFCI protected, so read the GFCI note above and check that your manual allows a bathroom.

Infrared sauna in an apartment

• A one or two person plug-in cabin suits an apartment. It is freestanding, it does not attach to walls or floors, and it produces no steam.
• It comes apart into the same flat panels when you move.
• Tell your landlord or check your building rules first. The sauna still needs a circuit to itself, and many apartment outlets share one 15 amp circuit with the rest of the room, so check before you buy.

Can an infrared sauna go outdoors?

• Only if the model is rated for outdoor use. Rain, humidity and sun damage an indoor cabin, and outdoor use usually voids its warranty.
• An enclosed porch, sunroom or three-season room is the common middle ground.

Does an infrared sauna need ventilation or plumbing?

No plumbing, no drain and no vent duct. An infrared sauna is a dry room and makes no steam.

• Airflow. Normal room ventilation is enough: an HVAC vent, a window you can open, or a door left ajar.
• After a session. Leave the sauna door open for a while so the inside dries, and wipe the bench.
• Closets. A one person cabin can fit in a walk-in closet, but give it a way to breathe, such as a door left open during and after use.

Infrared sauna assembly: how it goes together

The cabin ships flat on a pallet: a floor, wall panels, a bench and a roof, with the heaters already built into the panels.

1. Carry the panels in. Each one weighs roughly 40 to 80 pounds. Freight delivery is often to the curb, so plan for the carry.
2. Set the floor where the sauna will stand, with clearance behind it.
3. Stand the wall panels on the floor and lock them together with the built-in buckles, clips or magnets.
4. Fit the bench, then lower the roof on and connect the cables as the manual shows.
5. Plug in and follow the manual's first-use steps.

• People: two adults. Manuals are firm on this.
• Time: about 1 to 3 hours for most cabins. Some clip-together and magnetic designs go up in 30 to 60 minutes, and large cabins can take longer.
• Tools: often none, or a screwdriver and a step ladder.

Do you need a permit for an infrared sauna?

Usually not for a plug-in cabin, which is treated like an appliance. A permit is commonly required when new wiring goes in: a new dedicated circuit or a 240V line. Rules vary by city and by homeowners association, so check before the electrician starts.

Infrared sauna installation checklist

Confirm these six things before you order.

1. The spot. Floor space for the cabin plus 4 to 6 inches behind and beside it, and room for the door to open.
2. The ceiling. Higher than the cabin by the clearance your manual asks for.
3. The way in. The largest panel fits through every door and turn.
4. The outlet. Correct voltage and amps, grounded, on its own breaker.
5. The cord. The outlet is within reach with no extension cord.
6. The floor. Dry, level and away from water.

What we use, and why

Our own sauna is a traditional Finnish one, and most of what we make today is for that kind of room. Far infrared saunas are next in our range.

Placement is the first thing to settle before buying any sauna: measure the spot, the doorways and the outlet before you look at models. If you are still deciding between sauna types, infrared vs traditional sauna compares what each one needs at home.

Frequently asked questions

What electrical outlet does an infrared sauna need?

Small one and two person infrared saunas plug into a grounded 120V outlet on a dedicated 15 amp circuit. Most larger cabins, and any that draw more than about 1,800 watts, need a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Some large models need 240V. Check the manual for the exact plug.

Does an infrared sauna need a dedicated circuit?

Yes. A one or two person cabin typically draws 1.3 to 2.3 kW, and a 15 amp, 120V circuit supplies 1.8 kW at most. Sharing the breaker with other appliances leads to trips. Manufacturers call for a circuit that serves the sauna only, sized as the manual states.

Can I use an extension cord with an infrared sauna?

No. Sauna manuals warn against extension cords and plug adapters, and most also rule out power strips, because the cabin draws a heavy load for the whole session and a cord can overheat. Place the sauna within reach of the outlet, or have an outlet added.

How much space do you need for an infrared sauna?

A one person cabin is about 36 by 36 inches. A two person cabin is about 47 to 52 inches wide and 40 to 48 inches deep. Add 4 to 6 inches at the back and sides, and 2 to 3 feet in front for the door.

Can you put an infrared sauna on carpet?

Makers disagree. Some say low-pile carpet is fine, since the cabin floor does not get hot enough to harm it. Others advise against carpet because it holds sweat and moisture. A hard, level floor is the safer choice. On carpet, use low pile with a mat.

Can you put an infrared sauna in a garage?

Yes, if the garage is dry. The concrete floor suits a sauna well. In an unheated garage in winter, heat-up takes much longer and can roughly double. Garage outlets are usually GFCI protected, so check what your sauna's manual says about that.

Can you put an infrared sauna in a basement?

Yes. Basements are a popular place for one, with a concrete floor and the electrical panel often close by. Avoid a basement that floods or stays damp, and run a dehumidifier if the air is humid, because moisture harms the wood.

Can you put an infrared sauna in a bathroom?

Yes, in a bathroom large enough to keep the cabin out of splash range of the shower and tub. Manuals say to keep the sauna away from any source of water. The waterproof floor and exhaust fan in a bathroom are both helpful.

Can you put an infrared sauna in an apartment?

Usually, yes. A one or two person plug-in cabin is freestanding, makes no steam and comes apart into flat panels when you move. Tell your landlord, check building rules, and make sure the sauna can have a circuit to itself.

Does an infrared sauna need ventilation?

No vent duct or exhaust fan is needed. An infrared sauna is dry and makes no steam, so normal room airflow is enough. Leave the sauna door open for a while after each session so the inside dries out.

How long does it take to assemble an infrared sauna?

Most cabins take two adults about 1 to 3 hours, and some clip-together or magnetic designs go up in 30 to 60 minutes. You need two people because the wall panels weigh roughly 40 to 80 pounds each and have to be held upright.

Can an infrared sauna go upstairs?

Normally, yes. An assembled home infrared cabin weighs roughly 200 to 600 pounds, in the range of a large piece of furniture, which is within what residential floors are built for. The harder part is carrying the panels up the stairs and around the turns.